Manaus is a lovely city I am sure but even its citizens admit that its only asset is the Opera house. I agree but must add the sparse historic buildings (from height of the rubber fortune in early 20th century) are charming and the hospital is fantastic. The hospital that I saw in Rio was a castle of health and easily the most wonderful building I saw in the city, even second to the presidential palace if the hospital were to be restored. I thought this hierarchy of building glamour was an accident in Rio but Manaus’ hospital is second only to the renowned opera house so I am beginning to wonder about the place of medicine in Portuguese culture, or if the size represents the extent of Malaria in the region.
The rest of the city (though I am told it is a 2 million person urban oasis) seems languid as though it were a living ghost town with bustling markets. There were about 3 streets of markets and shops (lojas) hawking goods but the rest of the city appears to be on a permanent Sunday afternoon, noticeably missing an infestation of tourists. Perhaps this is only because tour guides swoop in to arrival terminals and whisk visitors away to jungle lodges before they have time to populate Manaus streets.
Other noticeables include that I was the only backpacker on my flight from São Paulo to Manaus this morning. It was a massive, long distance, international airplane (seating 2,4,2 in economy) but not even half full. Actually it was rather nauseating to ride a gigantic half filled plane into Manaus. I had to resist crying "You are killing to rainforest for nothing!!! Flying planes into it introduces so much pollution and disturbance but for what?! This plane isn't even full so it is purely wasteful." Needless to say, guilt is creeping in; is it wrong to visit and promote the invasion of a pristine land? Perhaps it is better to avoid situations which begat moral questions while on vacation.
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